Spirits – the most important component of any effective image. People of all age use perfume, wishing by means of easy note of aroma to create mood to themselves and people around. What well-known aromas have become history of perfumery last century?
Perfumery market formation
The mass perfumery market has begun to be formed in the first decade of the 20th century. Expensive essential oils have been driven out of perfumery market by synthetic aromatic substances. Thanks to it spirits became more available, the innovation has reduced costs of production of perfume and has reduced its cost.
All social groups of the population have become interested in new cheap perfume that became peculiar first step to formation of the mass market of perfumery. In shops the flavored goods – set of types of soap, colognes, various creams – at the democratic prices began to appear. Because of World War I and epidemic of typhus requirements to personal hygiene have changed, and new goods began to be in great demand.
Spirits and haute couture
At this time simple flower compositions become the most popular aromas. Gentle girls preferred rose – love symbol, violet – modesty symbol. With arrival of war to fashion more strict smells have entered. The new aroma with basis from wood notes – oak, bergamot and sandal-wood tree – has appeared in 1917, has given the name to the whole class of chypre spirits and Shipr from Coty was called. The well-known spirits of that time – Favourite bouquet of the empress with smell of lily of the valley. And in the 20th the fashion and perfumery have begun to interact actively. Large fashion houses have begun to sell aromas under own brands. Perfume for men has not become fashionable yet, and here women have ceased to perceive spirits as expensive gift. For the active, most earning to herself living woman the purchase of aroma became independence symbol. The most popular aroma of that time – Chanel No. 5 – has been called in honor of the woman who has become symbol of elegance and refinement thanks to which ladies have had opportunity to replace the doll dresses with more practical and comfortable clothes. Except Chanel No. 5, Soir de Paris from Bourjois and Shalimar from Guerlain were demanded aromas. There were flower and aldehydic spirits, the excessive sweetness was replaced by versatility. Besides, many aromas have got east spicy notes. The market of perfumery continued to extend, on counters perfumery water has appeared. It were a new experience the lines devoted to any important event, for example, of the developing aircraft. Consumers began to pay attention not to separate aromatic product, and to the whole series: spirits, cream, soap, lotion and perfumery water with the same aroma. Flower aromas continued to change: still remaining in fashion, they became lighter. Then aromas of Joy from Jean Patou, Blue Grass from Elizabeth Arden, Shocking from Elsa Schiaparelli were the most popular. In the 40th when America became the fashion-maker, the perfumers have begun to devote the creations to Hollywood stars. The well-known Femme Rochas were in bottle in the form of torso of the actress Mae West and in the box decorated with black lace. History of spirits was become by the most amazing aromas of the 40th: Ma Griffe from Carven, Femme Rochas from Rochas, Miss Dior from Christian Dior. Over time loner perfumers have practically disappeared, all perfume began to be released under the name of any fashion house. Began to treat spirits more simply, there were aromas for day, for evening and for night. Flower and amber and exotic aromas were in the lead in perfumery market. Diorissimo from Christian Dior, enjoyed Youth-Dew from Estée Lauder invariable popularity among buyers. Later perfumery products of many brands began to be on sale in large shopping centers. More cool, metal smells have become fashionable. Citrus and flower aldehydes have not lost the popularity. Eau Savage from Christian Dior, Calandre from Paco Rabanne and Estée from Estée Lauder were fashionable. In the 70th the cost of spirits fell sharply because of emergence of new synthetic substances again. Smells became light and air. However, hobby for light flower aromas was interrupted by Opium exit from Yves Saint Laurent. In the 80th in the market of spirits Poison from Christian Dior, series of perfume of Salvador Dali and Jicky from Guerlain were in the lead. Spirits have begun to choose not so much on smell how many by the name: to the favourite animated film or name of the actress. In the 90th the identity has returned to fashion. The popularity was gained by the niche perfumery which is produced without broad advertizing and not on sale in large shopping centers. Retroaromas – old-fashioned heavy, then – the author's perfumery and monoaromas consisting at most of three notes were demanded. Also spirits unisex and natural natural aromas have become fashionable. Also the buyer has paid attention to edible aromas - vanilla, fruit, chocolate. History of perfumery was become by CK One which have gone on sale from Kalvin Klein, Angel from Thierry Mugler and Dune from Christian Dior.