Now selectors have received huge number of the versions meeting the most exacting requirements. Gardeners can choose cherries with sweet and large fruits, undersized or self-fertile, and it is possible to pick up also the excellent grade meeting all these requirements. However, to receive excellent harvest, it is necessary to try: it is correct to plant sapling and to provide it good care.
Recommendations about landing of cherry
Cherry needs good lighting therefore when choosing the place for culture it is necessary to consider this factor. The upper part of the southern slope or the sublime and flat site protected from wind will be optimal variant for landing of tree.
Culture can be landed both in the spring, and in the fall, during the so-called period of biological rest when plants have already stopped or have not begun the growth yet. In the fall cherry in midland is landed in the first decade of September, Put at this time, it will well take roots and without problems will endure winter frosts. It is necessary to start landing of culture in the spring in April when snow descends from the site.
For disembarkation the experienced gardeners recommend to choose one - and two-year saplings of cherry. Believe that three- and four-year-old take root longer and much more later enter fructification time.
Technology of process of landing
- Just before carrying out landing we examine saplings. We cut off the damaged roots sharp and clean knife to healthy fabric and we powder cuts with fine-molded activated carbon. Also we cut off the broken branches.
- We do the clay talker. For this purpose we mix clay and water to smetanoobrazny consistence. We lower root system in it for 30–60 minutes.
- We prepare landing pole with a diameter of 0.6-0.8 m and about 0.4-0.5 m in depth, at the same time the upper part of soil should be put aside, to add humus (1–2 buckets) and superphosphate (1 glass) to this earth.
- The turned-out nutritious substrate is filled on bottom of hole and we form small hillock.
- We establish sapling on hillock and we straighten backs that they departed extensively from shtamb.
- We fill up with the soil roots, at the same time we shake a little sapling that the earth has filled all intervals between backs.
- When the root system is completely powdered, we condense slightly soil and we add still the earth. When landing cherry we consider that the place of transition of roots in shtamb trees (root neck) has to tower over ground level on 4–5 cm as at its deepening the tree badly grows and late enters fructification.
- Near sapling we establish peg and we tie young cherry to it freely twine.
- Around tree we do the small roller and we pour in water (2–3 buckets) in the turned-out hole.
- We mulch pristvolny circle the friable earth, peat or manure. It will help to protect soil from drying.
Care for cherry can do to all
The main advantage of the zoned grades of cherry is their resistance to weather patterns of midland and good winter hardiness, but nevertheless you should not count on huge and constant harvest without due leaving.
Watering, application of fertilizers and other actions for leaving
Cherry needs the same leaving, as well as behind other fruit-trees. The main procedures are scarification under culture krone, weeding, introduction of mineral and organic fertilizers.
In hot summer and at drought cherry needs to be watered not less than 2-5 times during the season. The first watering is necessary after blossoming, the second — when is formed stone in fruit, the third — during coloring of fruits. Also vlagozaryadkovy moistening prior to the beginning of frosts is required late fall if, of course, weather at this time droughty. The procedure is carried out after leaf fall, pouring out 2–3 buckets of water under each tree. Thanks to moisture reserve in the soil, its temperature will be several degrees higher and the plant without effort will endure winter cold weather.
For excellent growth cherry needs large amount of nutrients. Approximate scheme of carrying out fertilizing such:
- The first — at the beginning of vegetation. During this period introduce nitrogen fertilizers in the form of ammonium nitrate or urea (1 tablespoon on 10 l of water).
- The second fertilizing in 2 weeks same fertilizers.
- Bring under redigging of pristvolny circle 10 kg of humus, 50 g of potash salt and 80 g of superphosphate in the fall (on 1 sq.m.).
Why cherry does not fructify
To many summer residents, and not only beginners, but also experienced gardeners, the situation when culture does not fructify is familiar, and at times even does not blossom. The reasons for that can be different. Let's consider the most widespread.
First, the quantity of harvest directly depends on where the tree is planted. If to plant cherry on the site opened to "all winds", then most likely ovaries on it will practically not be as flower kidneys will freeze slightly. Berries can be formed only on the lower branches. To receive steadily big crop of juicy fruits, plant cherry on the sublime and flat site which is reliably protected from winds by wall of the house or fence. If you have open area, then choose undersized or dwarfish grades of cherry.
The second problem — absence on the site of grade pollinator. Many versions are self-fruitless and even if the grade is stated by originator as self-fertile, presence of neighbors who would pollinate cherry will only increase harvest. Gardeners can recommend to plant several trees blossoming in at one time in garden (it is quite simple to learn it, having read the description of grade). Consider that to plant the cherry saplings intended for mutual pollination costs not further 60 m from each other.