For calculation of a wave, definition of its main characteristics: lengths, heights, capacities, speeds, ranges, use difficult measuring devices. But it is possible to take measurements and without use of devices.
Instruction
1. Determine sizes which quantity characteristics are known. It is the wave speed (speed of distribution of a wave); the speed of movement of a crest of a wave in the direction of its distribution determined for a short period of time, (C); the wave period - an interval of time of passing of two adjacent tops of waves through the fixed vertical, i.e. time for which the wave passes the distance equal to the length (it is measured in any temporary units, as a rule, seconds (T)); reservoir depth – distance from a reservoir surface to the bottom (is expressed in any sizes for measurement of distance).
2. Calculate wave speed, using Lagrange's formula: C = √2gh where g is acceleration of gravity (gravity, m/s), h is reservoir depth. Or calculate speed empirically. Calculate the T wave period by the following formula: T = 2πC/g, where π – number "пи" (≈3.14).
3. Use the received results of calculations for calculation of wavelength (ʎ - distance across between two adjacent crests in a wave section (profile) which is carried out in the direction of distribution of waves. It is measured in meters). Wavelength, speed of its distribution and the period are connected among themselves by the following dependence: ʎ = With * T. Podstavlyayte the available / found parameters.
4. If the speed of wind (W) and its dispersal (D), then use the following dependence: ʎ = z*W*³ √ D where z – the variable coefficient, depends on sea depth, is calculated by a formula: 0.104*H 0.573.
5. So, wind is the main cause of waves. Wind waves are formed, first of all, on the surfaces of the seas and oceans. The main characteristics of a single wave are defined not only by the speed of wind, but also its duration, the area of the water surface with which it interacts. Practical need to know an element of each single wave is absent, as a rule, all calculations and observations come down to identification of dependences between elements of waves and factors defining their character.